CUBED LAMB WITH SPINACH, EGGPLANT, AND WHITE BEANS

Ciao'd with a vase of yellow tulips keeping me company.

This recipe is the epitome of cucina povera or peasant cooking. It's home-based food that's not influenced by chefs or trends. Cucina povera is grounded in basic ingredients, historically gathered and grown on one's farm. Made with the freshest ingredients, whether truly fresh or preserved, the food manifests integrity and sings with flavor. In my recipe, I call for dried beans which would be used in traditional kitchens. If you're pressed for time, substitute 3 cups canned beans. 

Serves 4 to 6

1 cup dried cannellini beans*
Several sprigs each parsley, thyme, oregano
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound fresh spinach, stemmed (about 8 cups), rinsed
1 pound boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
6 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
1 pound eggplant, trimmed, cut into ½-inch wedges
1 ½ teaspoons dried oregano
1 cup beef broth
Freshly ground black pepper

Rinse and drain the beans, picking them over to remove any debris. Transfer the beans to a medium saucepan, add cold water to cover the beans by 1 inch or so, cover the pot, bring to a boil, and then remove from the heat. Let rest 1 hour. Set the pan over medium heat. Add the herb sprigs, bay leaf, 1 ½ teaspoons salt, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Bring to a boil then uncover, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beans are tender, 1-1 ½ hours total. Test for doneness after 1 hour, adding more water as necessary to keep the beans submerged. Drain the beans and remove the herbs.

In a large deep skillet over medium heat, combine the spinach along with any water clinging to its leaves and a generous dash of salt. Cook until the spinach just begins to wilt, about 3 minutes. Transfer the spinach to a paper towel-lined plate. When the spinach is cool, wrap it in the paper towel and squeeze to remove as much water as you can. Coarsely chop.

Wipe the skillet dry and heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the lamb and garlic and cook, adjusting the heat as needed to prevent the garlic from burning, until the lamb is browned but still pink inside, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a plate and loosely cover to keep warm.

Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is browned and tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is browned and tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

Return the lamb and accumulated juices to the pan. Stir in the beans, spinach, oregano, and beef broth, and cook until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Serve immediately.

*For a quicker version of this recipe, substitute 3 cups canned cannellini beans and skip the dried beans cooking method and ingredients therein.

MARCELLA MONDAY: GRATINEED ASPARAGUS AND SWISS CHARD

Ciao'd after a March Madness weekend. And I do mean mad.

Continuing the asparagus theme from last week (spring is to asparagus what summer is to zucchini), here's a recipe that pairs the subtle flavor of white Swiss chard stems with the more pronounced one of asparagus. It's a brilliant marriage and, of course, Marcella Hazan offered the recipe to us. The vegetables are topped with Parmesan cheese and butter. As Marcella says, "It's a rare vegetable that cannot profit from this classic technique." She is so, so right. 

Serves 4

2 pounds Swiss chard
2 tablespoons Kosher salt
1 pound asparagus
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Trim the Swiss chard stalks of all leaves. Reserve the leaves for another use. Cut off any discolored portion of the bottom of the stalks but shorten them no further. Wash the stalks in cold water.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil with one tablespoon of the salt. Add the stalks and cook until tender when pierced with a fork, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a colander and rinse with cold water. Transfer to a plate and pat dry. 

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. 

Trim the ends of the asparagus, leaving only the moist tender parts of the stalk, about 1 inch or so. Peel the tough green skin from the base of the spear to the end of the stalk. Bring the chard water to a boil once again, add the remaining tablespoon of salt and asparagus spears. Cook until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a colander and rinse with cold water. Transfer to a plate and pat dry. 

Grease a shallow, medium-sized baking dish with 1/2 tablespoon of the butter. Line the bottom with a layer of chard stalks, and then top with a layer of asparagus. Repeat until you have used up all the vegetables. Sprinkle the grated cheese on top, distributing it evenly. Dot with the remaining butter. Place the dish on the top rack of the oven and bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest 5 minutes before serving. Recipe by Marcella Hazan, Marcella's Italian Kitchen, Alfred A. Knopf, 1986.

ONE-POT CHICKEN WITH SWISS CHARD AND TUBETTI PASTA

Ciao'd with handfuls of white cheddar popcorn.

Friday is my day to write an essay for the blog but for the last few Fridays, I have found myself at a loss for words. Perhaps it's all the noise reverberating out there and around us. How can I get a word in edgewise? Perhaps it's the time of year, a new season and therefore, a reset for my thoughts. The winter birds are flying away and the spring birds, golden finches among them, are alighting on our feeders. I like to think that the cold weather birds have pecked my negative thoughts to carry with them as they head to points north. As for the spring birds, I hope they bring sunny optimism.

My kitchen has been a respite of late, more than usual. I am a slave to television news and talk radio. Neither is serving me well these days. I need the simple tasks of the kitchen. Chopping and dicing onions and carrots. Stirring and mixing breadcrumbs, basil, and parsley. Washing dishes and wiping counters. These actions draw a baseline of calm. 

When I cook, my brain (and ire) rests and my senses sing. The aroma of fresh garlic and basil. The song of sauteeing onions. The loveliness of glowing lemons in a white bowl. The push of the knead and the pull of shaping pizza dough. The taste, oh, the taste of so many miraculous things! Fresh-picked lettuce, grassy, green artichokes, the first asparagus. And sweet, red, ripe strawberries! 

The earth gives in equal measure. It does not judge if we're flying on the right or on the left. It does not care if we're the 1% or the 99%. It bestows its bounty on any level of cook and invites, "Do what you will with me." And anything we do is just fine.

This week, I planted my garden with warm weather deliciousness, including Swiss chard. This recipe is a harbinger of what's to come. I think you'll enjoy its simple preparation and fresh, uncomplicated flavor. 

RECIPE

ONE-POT CHICKEN WITH SWISS CHARD AND TUBETTI PASTA

Succulent chicken thighs (yes, you can use chicken breasts, if you wish), Swiss chard, and tubetti pasta cook together in one pan (easy cleanup!) for a light and bright springtime meal. If you can't find tubetti (I use De Cecco), substitute orzo or Israeli couscous.

Serves 4

2 teaspoons dried basil
1 teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 large boneless, skinless chicken thighs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves (or 3 small cloves), finely chopped
1 cup tubetti pasta or other small pasta such as orzo
1 bunch Swiss chard, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
2 cups chicken broth
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

Combine basil and thyme in a small bowl, crumbling between your fingers to release the flavor. Add the salt and pepper. Sprinkle both sides of the chicken with half the spice mixture.

In a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the chicken and cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion, carrot, and celery to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. Stir in the garlic and pasta and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add the Swiss chard, lemon zest, and remaining spice mixture; cook, stirring, until the chard just begins to wilt, 1 to 2 minutes.

Return the chicken to the pan along with any accumulated juice from the plate. Pour in the broth and lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and cook until the chicken is cooked through and the pasta is al dente (firm to the bite), 10 to 12 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.  Serve, passing Parmesan at the table. 

THE FIX: ASPARAGUS, HAM, MUSHROOM, AND GOAT CHEESE FRITTATA

Ciao'd while sipping limoncello made by my British friend (British!), Susan. 

This frittata, bursting with spring flavors, is a super easy solution for brunch, lunch, or dinner. Add a green salad and crusty bread and the meal is complete. Omit the ham for a vegetarian version.

Serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces fresh mushrooms (any variety you like), thinly sliced
10 asparagus spears, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 cup diced ham
8 large eggs
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled

Preheat the broiler. In a 12-inch ovenproof or cast iron skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Toss in the asparagus and ham and cook until the asparagus is bright green and barely tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. 

While the vegetables are cooking, in a medium bowl whisk the eggs and thyme. Stir in the goat cheese and salt and pepper, to taste. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Pour the egg mixture into the skillet; do not stir. Cook, undisturbed, until the eggs have set and thickened and only the surface is runny,  about 5 minutes.

Put the skillet under the broiler (about 4 inches from the heat) and cook until the center is set and the top is golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the frittata from the oven and let it rest 5 minutes before serving. Loosen the frittata with a spatula and slide onto a plate. Cut in into wedges. Serve the frittata hot or at room temperature. 

OKEY DOKEY ARTICHOKEY (AND BRAISED ARTICHOKES WITH ROMANO TOPPING)

Ciao'd while the Acacia pollen flurries in the breeze.

Italians are great fans of the artichoke. During the spring, all manner of artichokes, from petite to jumbo, grasshopper green to deep violet, are piled high in farmers' markets. Nowhere is this display more dramatic than in Rome's Campo dei Fiori market. No surprise then that Carciofi alla Romana (Roman-style artichokes) has become an iconic Roman dish. During the spring, most households and restaurants prepare it. Over and over again.

The artichokes are prepared with mentuccia, a delicate wild mint native to Italy. The mint is combined with parsley and garlic and then stuffed into the artichoke's cavity. The artichokes are then braised in a blend of olive oil, white wine, and water.  It's a dish that celebrates how fresh, seasonal ingredients prepared simply can manifest absolute perfection. That's it, and that's enough.

My recipe is a riff on the Roman dish. I braise the artichokes alla Romana-style, but instead of stuffing them with herbs and garlic, I mix those ingredients with toasted breadcrumbs, chopped soppressata (a Pugliese dry-cured salami) and Pecorino-Romano cheese. I sprinkle the mixture on the artichokes before serving. Simplice è deliziosa (simple is delicious).

RECIPE

BRAISED ARTICHOKES WITH ROMANO TOPPING

A blend of white wine, parsley, mint, and garlic infuses the artichokes with a flavor that complements their grassy greenness. Before serving, the artichokes are topped with toasted breadcrumbs enriched with Pecorino-Romano cheese and soppressata, a Pugliese dry-cured salami. 

Serves 4

1 lemon
4 globe artichokes
6 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 cup fresh parsley leaves plus 1/4 cup chopped
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves
2 cups dry white wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Generous 1 cup breadcrumbs
1/4 cup grated Pecorino-Romano cheese
1/4 cup soppressata or other cured salami
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Halve the lemon, squeeze the juice into the water, and add the lemon halves. Trim the stem of an artichoke to about 1 1/2 inches from the base. Using a vegetable peeler or paring knife, remove the stem's fibrous exterior. Remove the tough outer leavers, snapping them off at the base, until only the yellow leaves with pale green tips remain. Trim 1/4-inch off the top of the artichoke. With a a small spoon (a melon baller works great), scrape and remove the hairy choke in the center of the artichoke. Place the artichoke in the acidulated lemon water. Repeat with the remaining three artichokes.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a saucepan large enough to hold the artichokes snugly. Add the garlic, parsley, and mint and cook, stirring, until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and 2 teaspoons salt. Remove the artichokes from the water, tap on the counter to spread the leaves open, and place cut side down in the pan. Cover and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently until the artichokes are tender. The artichokes should offer no resistance when pierced with a knife and the outer leaves should come off easily when pulled. Season the braising liquid with salt and pepper, to taste. 

Meanwhile, in a small skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring, until they become lightly browned. Stir in the cheese, soppressata, and remaining parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the artichokes among 4 shallow bowls. Top with the breadcrumb mixture and spoon the braising liquid around the artichokes.  

 

THE FIX: PESTO PASTA WITH SHRIMP AND ZUCCHINI

Ciao'd while watching my version of March Madness: Tennis at Indian Wells. 

RECIPE

PESTO PASTA WITH SHRIMP AND ZUCCHINI

The sweetness of the shrimp marries deliciously with the herbal pesto and zucchini in this freshly flavored dish. It’s pretty, too! Traditionally, Parmesan cheese does not gild seafood dishes but, what the heck, I like it. 

Serves 4

1 tablespoon lemon zest
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
1 lb. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
12 oz. bucatini or linguine pasta
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 zucchini, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/3 cup prepared pesto (or more to taste)
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

In a small bowl, combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, chives, and shrimp; set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Generously salt the boiling water and add the pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just al dente (tender but firm to the bite), according to package directions. Drain, but don’t rinse, reserving about ½ cup of the cooking water.

Meanwhile, in a skillet over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, until the zucchini is almost crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add the shrimp, red pepper, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the shrimp turn pink, about 3 to 4 minutes more. Remove from the heat and stir in the pesto. 

Add the pasta to the pesto mixture and toss to combine. Use the reserved water to loosen the sauce, if needed. Serve immediately, passing the Parmesan cheese at the table.