4 PM FIX: BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA

An authentic Florentine T-bone steak is cut from a Chianina cow and aged for about a week. Though Chianina beef is lean, it's prized for its rich flavor and balanced texture (perhaps due to the Chianina's grazing locale in Siena, Arezzo and environs). Since we do not breed pure Chianina cattle in the United States, purchase the best steak you can find. The meat should be 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick and weigh 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 pounds. Ask for a porterhouse steak as this is the larger of the T-bone steaks. It's essential that the steak is grilled over very high heat (charcoal is best) but a cast-iron grill pan works, too...

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A DIFFERENT KIND OF HANGOVER (AND THE RISOTTO THAT SOOTHES IT)

I have a horror hangover. Fueled by the unnuanced vitriol of the Republican Convention to the killings in way too many places near and far, I wrestle with the weight of my heart, the stones in my soul, and the unanswered questions crushing my brain.  All of which magnify the allure of the kitchen and cooking - and this risotto...

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MEMORY (AND THE TOMATO SALAD THAT SPARKS IT)

Can food ignite memory? During the painfully infrequent visits to my dad (but that’s a story for another day), I contemplate him in his dementia-swathed solitude. I wonder what goes on in his brain. Is it a sunny place with clear visibility to the memories that enriched his life and that he is now keeping secret from us? Or is it a snowy landscape with flickering images that occupy his time to discern...

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